Raws li daim tawv nqaij muaj hnub nyoog, muaj kev poob qis hauv physiologic muaj nuj nqi. Cov kev hloov no yog ntxias los ntawm ob qho tib si hauv (chronologic) thiab extrinsic (feem ntau yog UV-induced) yam. Botanicals muab cov txiaj ntsig zoo los tiv thaiv qee qhov cim ntawm kev laus. Ntawm no, peb tshuaj xyuas xaiv botanicals thiab cov pov thawj scientific tom qab lawv cov ntaub ntawv tiv thaiv kev laus. Botanicals tuaj yeem muab tshuaj tua kab mob, antioxidant, moisturizing, UV-tiv thaiv, thiab lwm yam teebmeem. Ntau ntau ntawm botanicals tau teev tseg raws li cov khoom xyaw hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce nrov thiab tshuaj pleev ib ce, tab sis tsuas yog ob peb xaiv tau tham ntawm no. Cov no tau raug xaiv raws li qhov muaj ntawm cov ntaub ntawv tshawb fawb, tus kheej nyiam ntawm cov kws sau ntawv, thiab pom tau tias "muaj koob npe" ntawm cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce tam sim no. Cov botanicals tshuaj xyuas no muaj xws li argan roj, txiv maj phaub roj, crocin, feverfew, ntsuab tshuaj yej, marigold, pomegranate, thiab soy.
Ntsiab lus: botanical; anti-aging; argan yog'i; txiv maj phaub roj; crocin; feverfew; tshuaj yej ntsuab; marigold; pomegranate; kua txiv
3.1. Argan Roj
3.1.1. Keeb kwm, kev siv, thiab kev thov
Argan roj yog endemic rau Morocco thiab yog tsim los ntawm cov noob ntawm Argania sponosa L. Nws muaj ntau yam kev siv xws li hauv kev ua noj, kho cov kab mob ntawm daim tawv nqaij, thiab kev tu tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau.
3.1.2. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Argan roj yog tsim los ntawm 80% monounsaturated fatty acids thiab 20% saturated fatty acids thiab muaj polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, squalene, thiab triterpene cawv.
3.1.3. Cov pov thawj scientific
Argan roj tau ib txwm siv nyob rau hauv Morocco los txo lub ntsej muag pigmentation, tab sis kev tshawb fawb hauv paus rau qhov kev thov no tsis tau nkag siab yav dhau los. Hauv kev tshawb nrhiav nas, argan roj inhibited tyrosinase thiab dopachrome tautomerase qhia hauv B16 murine melanoma hlwb, uas ua rau txo qis ntawm cov tshuaj melanin. Qhov no qhia tau hais tias cov roj argan yuav yog ib qho muaj zog inhibitor ntawm melanin biosynthesis, tab sis randomized tswj kev sim (RTC) nyob rau hauv tib neeg cov ntsiab lus yog xav tau los xyuas qhov kev xav no.
Ib qho RTC me me ntawm 60 tus poj niam tom qab yug me nyuam tau qhia tias noj txhua hnub thiab / lossis cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm cov roj argan txo qis cov dej tsis zoo (TEWL), txhim kho elasticity ntawm daim tawv nqaij, raws li kev nce hauv R2 (tag nrho elasticity ntawm daim tawv nqaij), R5 (net elasticity ntawm daim tawv nqaij), thiab R7 (biological elasticity) tsis thiab txo qis hauv resonance khiav lub sij hawm (RRT) (ib qho kev ntsuas inversely cuam tshuam rau daim tawv nqaij elasticity). Cov pab pawg tau randomized kom haus cov roj txiv roj lossis roj argan. Ob pawg siv argan roj rau sab laug volar dab teg nkaus xwb. Kev ntsuas tau raug coj los ntawm sab xis thiab sab laug volar dab teg. Kev txhim kho hauv elasticity tau pom nyob rau hauv ob pawg ntawm lub dab teg uas cov roj argan tau pleev xim rau, tab sis ntawm lub dab teg qhov twg cov roj argan tsis siv tsuas yog pab pawg noj cov roj argan muaj qhov nce hauv elasticity [31]. Qhov no tau raug ntaus nqi rau cov ntsiab lus antioxidant ntxiv hauv argan roj piv rau cov roj txiv roj. Nws yog hypothesized tias qhov no yuav yog vim nws cov vitamin E thiab ferulic acid cov ntsiab lus, uas yog paub antioxidants.
3.2. Txiv maj phaub roj
3.2.1. Keeb kwm, kev siv, thiab kev thov
Txiv maj phaub roj yog muab los ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo qhuav ntawm Cocos nucifera thiab muaj ntau yam siv, ob qho tib si keeb kwm thiab niaj hnub. Nws tau ua haujlwm ua cov tshuaj tsw qab, tawv nqaij, thiab cov plaub hau txias tus neeg sawv cev, thiab hauv ntau cov khoom kom zoo nkauj. Thaum cov txiv maj phaub roj muaj ntau yam khoom siv, suav nrog txiv maj phaub acid, hydrogenated txiv maj phaub acid, thiab hydrogenated txiv maj phaub roj, peb yuav sib tham txog kev tshawb fawb cov ntaub ntawv cuam tshuam nrog cov txiv maj phaub roj (VCO), uas yog npaj tsis muaj cua sov.
Cov roj txiv maj phaub tau siv los ua kom cov tawv nqaij moisturization ntawm cov menyuam mos thiab tej zaum yuav muaj txiaj ntsig zoo hauv kev kho mob atopic dermatitis rau ob qho tib si nws cov khoom moisturizing thiab nws muaj peev xwm cuam tshuam rau Staphylococcus aureus thiab lwm yam kab mob ntawm daim tawv nqaij hauv cov neeg mob atopic. Txiv maj phaub roj tau pom tias yuav txo qis S. aureus colonization ntawm daim tawv nqaij ntawm cov neeg laus nrog atopic dermatitis nyob rau hauv ob-dig muag RTC.
3.2.2. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Txiv maj phaub roj yog tsim los ntawm 90-95% saturated triglycerides (lauric acid, myristic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, thiab palmitic acid). Qhov no yog qhov sib piv rau feem ntau cov roj zaub / txiv hmab txiv ntoo, uas feem ntau muaj cov roj unsaturated. Topically thov saturated triglycerides muaj nuj nqi kom moisturize ntawm daim tawv nqaij raws li ib tug emollient los ntawm flattening qhuav curled npoo ntawm corneocytes thiab sau qhov khoob ntawm lawv.
3.2.3. Cov pov thawj scientific
Txiv maj phaub roj tuaj yeem moisturize qhuav tawv nqaij. Rau caum-ob feem pua ntawm cov fatty acids nyob rau hauv VCO yog ntev npaum li cas thiab 92% yog saturated, uas tso cai rau kom nruj packing uas ua rau ib tug ntau dua occlusive nyhuv tshaj li txiv roj roj. Cov triglycerides hauv cov txiv maj phaub roj tau tawg los ntawm lipases hauv cov tawv nqaij ib txwm muaj rau glycerin thiab fatty acids. Glycerin yog ib tug muaj zog humectant, uas attracts dej mus rau lub corneal txheej ntawm lub epidermis los ntawm sab nraud ib puag ncig thiab cov txheej txheej ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Cov fatty acids hauv VCO muaj cov ntsiab lus linoleic acid tsawg, uas yog qhov tseem ceeb vim tias linoleic acid tuaj yeem ua rau tawv nqaij. Txiv maj phaub roj yog qhov zoo tshaj rau cov roj ntxhia hauv kev txo qis TEWL hauv cov neeg mob atopic dermatitis thiab zoo li cov roj ntxhia hauv kev kho xerosis.
Lauric acid, precursor rau monolaurin thiab ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm VCO, tej zaum yuav muaj kev tiv thaiv kab mob, tuaj yeem hloov kho lub cev tiv thaiv kab mob thiab ua lub luag haujlwm rau qee yam tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob ntawm VCO. VCO muaj cov qib siab ntawm ferulic acid thiab p-coumaric acid (ob leeg phenolic acids), thiab cov qib siab ntawm cov phenolic acids yog txuam nrog kev muaj peev xwm antioxidant. Phenolic acids zoo tiv thaiv UV-induced kev puas tsuaj. Txawm li cas los xij, txawm hais tias cov txiv maj phaub roj tuaj yeem ua haujlwm raws li tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub, cov kev tshawb fawb hauv vitro qhia tias nws muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv UV me me.
Ntxiv nrog rau nws cov moisturizing thiab antioxidant teebmeem, tsiaj qauv qhia tias VCO tuaj yeem txo lub sijhawm kho qhov txhab. Muaj kev nce qib ntawm pepsin-soluble collagen (ntau dua collagen cross-linking) hauv VCO-kho qhov txhab piv rau kev tswj hwm. Histopathology pom tau tias fibroblast proliferation thiab neovascularization nyob rau hauv cov qhov txhab. Cov kev tshawb fawb ntxiv yog tsim nyog los saib seb puas siv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm VCO tuaj yeem nce qib collagen hauv cov tawv nqaij laus.
3.3. Crocin
3.3.1. Keeb kwm, siv, thov
Crocin yog ib qho khoom siv lom neeg ntawm saffron, muab los ntawm cov stigma qhuav ntawm Crocus sativus L. Saffron yog cog nyob rau hauv ntau lub teb chaws xws li Iran, Is Nrias teb, thiab tim Nkij teb chaws, thiab tau siv rau hauv cov tshuaj ib txwm siv los txo ntau yam kab mob xws li kev nyuaj siab, o. , kab mob siab, thiab lwm yam.
3.3.2. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Crocin yog lub luag haujlwm rau cov xim ntawm saffron. Crocin kuj pom muaj nyob rau hauv cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo ntawm Gardenia jasminoides Ellis. Nws raug cais raws li carotenoid glycoside.
3.3.3. Cov pov thawj scientific
Crocin muaj cov teebmeem antioxidant, tiv thaiv squalene tiv thaiv UV-induced peroxidation, thiab tiv thaiv kev tso tawm ntawm inflammatory mediators. Cov nyhuv antioxidant tau pom nyob rau hauv vitro kev soj ntsuam uas pom tias muaj kev ua haujlwm zoo tshaj plaws ntawm cov tshuaj antioxidant piv rau Vitamin C. Tsis tas li ntawd, crocin inhibits UVA-induced cell membrane peroxidation thiab inhibits kev qhia ntawm ntau tus neeg kho mob pro-inflammatory xws li IL-8, PGE-2, IL. -6, TNF-α, IL-1α, thiab LTB4. Nws kuj txo qhov kev qhia ntawm ntau yam NF-κB nyob ntawm cov noob. Hauv kev tshawb fawb siv kab lis kev cai tib neeg fibroblasts, crocin txo UV-induced ROS, txhawb kev qhia ntawm extracellular matrix protein Col-1, thiab txo cov cell nrog senescent phenotypes tom qab UV hluav taws xob. Nws txo ROS ntau lawm thiab txwv apoptosis. Crocin tau pom tias yuav txwv ERK / MAPK / NF-κB / STAT txoj hauv kev hauv HaCaT hlwb hauv vitro. Txawm hais tias crocin muaj lub peev xwm los tiv thaiv kev laus kom zoo nkauj, qhov sib xyaw ua ke yog labile. Kev siv nanostructured lipid dispersions rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce tau tshawb xyuas nrog cov txiaj ntsig zoo. Txhawm rau txiav txim siab qhov cuam tshuam ntawm crocin hauv vivo, yuav tsum muaj cov qauv tsiaj ntxiv thiab kev sim tshuaj ntsuam xyuas randomized.
3.4. Feverfew
3.4.1. Keeb kwm, siv, thov
Feverfew, Tanacetum parthenium, yog cov tshuaj ntsuab txhua xyoo uas tau siv rau ntau lub hom phiaj hauv pej xeem cov tshuaj.
3.4.2. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Feverfew muaj parthenolide, ib qho sesquiterpene lactone, uas tej zaum yuav muaj lub luag haujlwm rau qee yam ntawm nws cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob, los ntawm inhibition ntawm NF-κB. Qhov inhibition ntawm NF-κB zoo li tsis muaj kev ywj pheej ntawm parthenolide cov teebmeem antioxidant. Parthenolide kuj tau pom tias muaj kev tiv thaiv kabmob kheesxaws tawm tsam UVB-induced tawv nqaij cancer thiab tawm tsam melanoma hlwb hauv vitro. Hmoov tsis zoo, parthenolide tuaj yeem ua rau muaj kev tsis haum tshuaj, qhov ncauj hlwv, thiab kev tsis haum tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob dermatitis. Vim yog cov kev txhawj xeeb no, tam sim no feem ntau raug tshem tawm ua ntej feverfew ntxiv rau cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce.
3.4.3. Cov pov thawj scientific
Vim tias muaj teeb meem nrog kev siv tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm parthenolide, qee cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce tam sim no uas muaj tus mob feverfew siv parthenolide-depleted feverfew (PD-feverfew), uas tau lees tias tsis muaj peev xwm rhiab heev. PD-feverfew tuaj yeem txhim kho endogenous DNA-kho kev ua haujlwm hauv daim tawv nqaij, tuaj yeem txo UV-induced DNA puas. Hauv kev tshawb fawb hauv vitro, PD-feverfew attenuated UV-induced hydrogen peroxide tsim thiab txo qis pro-inflammatory cytokine tso tawm. Nws pom tau tias muaj zog antioxidant cuam tshuam ntau dua li qhov sib piv, Vitamin C, thiab txo qis UV-induced erythema hauv 12-kev kawm RTC.
3.5. Tshuaj yej ntsuab
3.5.1. Keeb kwm, siv, thov
Cov tshuaj yej ntsuab tau siv rau nws cov txiaj ntsig kev noj qab haus huv hauv Suav teb rau ntau pua xyoo. Vim nws cov teebmeem antioxidant muaj zog, muaj kev txaus siab rau kev txhim kho kev ruaj khov, bioavailable tshuaj pleev ib ce.
3.5.2. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Ntsuab tshuaj yej, los ntawm Camellia sinensis, muaj ntau yam bioactive tebchaw uas muaj peev xwm los tiv thaiv kev laus, xws li caffeine, vitamins, thiab polyphenols. Cov polyphenols loj hauv tshuaj yej ntsuab yog catechins, tshwj xeeb yog gallocatechin, epigallocatechin (ECG), thiab epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG). Epigallocatechin-3-gallate muaj antioxidant, photoprotective, immunomodulatory, anti-angiogenic, thiab anti-inflammatory zog. Ntsuab tshuaj yej kuj muaj ntau ntawm flavonol glycoside kaempferol, uas yog absorbed zoo nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij tom qab siv tshuaj pleev.
3.5.3. Cov pov thawj scientific
Ntsuab tshuaj yej extract txo intracellular ROS ntau lawm hauv vitro thiab tau txo ROS-induced necrosis. Epigallocatechin-3-gallate (ib qho tshuaj yej ntsuab polyphenol) inhibits UV-induced tso hydrogen peroxide, suppresses phosphorylation ntawm MAPK, thiab txo qhov mob los ntawm kev ua kom NF-κB. Siv cov tawv nqaij ex vivo los ntawm ib tug poj niam noj qab haus huv 31-xyoo-laus, daim tawv nqaij pretreated nrog dawb los yog ntsuab tshuaj yej extract qhia tau khaws cia ntawm Langerhans hlwb (antigen-presenting hlwb lub luag hauj lwm rau induction ntawm kev tiv thaiv nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij) tom qab UV teeb raug.
Hauv cov qauv nas, cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm cov tshuaj yej ntsuab extract ua ntej UV raug coj mus rau qhov txo qis erythema, txo cov tawv nqaij infiltration ntawm leukocytes, thiab txo cov kev ua ntawm myeloperoxidase. Nws tseem tuaj yeem inhibit 5-α-reductase.
Ntau qhov kev tshawb fawb txog tib neeg cov kev kawm tau soj ntsuam cov txiaj ntsig zoo ntawm kev siv tshuaj yej ntsuab. Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm cov tshuaj yej ntsuab emulsion inhibited 5-α-reductase thiab ua rau txo qis hauv microcomedone loj hauv microcomedonal pob txuv. Hauv kev tshawb fawb me me rau-lub lim tiam tib neeg kev sib cais-lub ntsej muag, cov tshuaj nplaum uas muaj EGCG txo qis hypoxia-inducible factor 1 α (HIF-1α) thiab vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF) qhia, nthuav tawm lub peev xwm los tiv thaiv telangiectasias. Hauv kev kawm ob qhov muag tsis pom kev, cov tshuaj yej ntsuab, tshuaj yej dawb, lossis lub tsheb tsuas yog siv rau lub pob tw ntawm 10 tus neeg tuaj yeem noj qab haus huv. Tom qab ntawd daim tawv nqaij tau irradiated nrog 2 × tsawg erythema koob tshuaj (MED) ntawm hnub ci-simulated UVR. Daim tawv nqaij biopsies los ntawm cov chaw no qhia tau hais tias daim ntawv thov ntawm ntsuab los yog dawb tshuaj yej extract yuav txo tau cov depletion ntawm Langerhans hlwb, raws li CD1a positivity. Kuj tseem muaj kev tiv thaiv ib feem ntawm UV-induced oxidative DNA puas tsuaj, raws li pov thawj los ntawm kev txo qis ntawm 8-OHdG. Hauv ib txoj kev tshawb fawb sib txawv, 90 tus neeg tuaj yeem pab dawb tau muab faib ua peb pawg: Tsis muaj kev kho mob, tshuaj ntsuab tshuaj ntsuab, lossis tshuaj yej dawb. Txhua pab pawg tau muab faib ua ntau theem ntawm UV hluav taws xob. Cov tshuaj tiv thaiv hauv vivo tau pom tias muaj kwv yees li SPF 1.
3.6. Marigold
3.6.1. Keeb kwm, siv, thov
Marigold, Calendula officinalis, yog ib tsob nroj uas muaj ntxhiab tsw qab uas muaj peev xwm kho tau. Nws tau siv nyob rau hauv pej xeem cov tshuaj nyob rau hauv cov teb chaws Europe thiab lub tebchaws United States raws li ib tug tshuaj pleev ib ce rau burns, bruises, txiav, thiab pob khaus. Marigold kuj tau qhia txog cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob hauv cov qauv murine ntawm cov qog nqaij hlav uas tsis yog melanoma.
3.6.2. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Cov tshuaj tseem ceeb ntawm marigolds yog steroids, terpenoids, dawb thiab esterified triterpene cawv, phenolic acids, flavonoids, thiab lwm yam. Txawm hais tias ib txoj kev tshawb fawb pom tau hais tias cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm marigold extract yuav txo qhov mob hnyav thiab mob ntawm cov kab mob dermatitis hauv cov neeg mob uas tau txais hluav taws xob rau mob qog noj ntshav, lwm yam kev sim tshuaj tau pom tias tsis muaj qhov zoo tshaj thaum piv rau daim ntawv thov ntawm aqueous cream ib leeg.
3.6.3. Cov pov thawj scientific
Marigold muaj qhov pom tau tias muaj peev xwm antioxidant thiab cytotoxic cuam tshuam rau tib neeg cov qog nqaij hlav qog noj ntshav hauv ib qho hauv vitro tib neeg daim tawv nqaij qauv. Nyob rau hauv ib qho kev sib cais hauv vitro txoj kev tshawb fawb, ib qho tshuaj nplaum uas muaj cov roj calendula tau soj ntsuam los ntawm UV spectrophotometric thiab pom tias muaj qhov absorbance spectrum nyob rau hauv thaj tsam ntawm 290-320 nm; Qhov no tau coj los txhais tau hais tias daim ntawv thov ntawm no cream muaj kev tiv thaiv zoo hnub ci. Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb uas yuav tsum nco ntsoov, txawm li cas los xij, qhov no tsis yog ib qho kev sim hauv vivo uas xam qhov tsawg kawg nkaus erythema koob tshuaj hauv tib neeg tuaj yeem pab dawb thiab nws tseem tsis tau paub meej tias qhov no yuav txhais li cas hauv kev sim tshuaj.
Hauv ib qho qauv hauv vivo murine, marigold extract tau pom tias muaj zog antioxidant nyhuv tom qab UV raug. Hauv kev tshawb fawb sib txawv, suav nrog albino nas, cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm calendula cov roj tseem ceeb txo qis malondialdehyde (tus cim ntawm oxidative kev nyuaj siab) thaum nce qib ntawm catalase, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, thiab ascorbic acid hauv daim tawv nqaij.
Hauv kev kawm yim-lub lim tiam ib qhov muag tsis pom kev nrog 21 tib neeg cov ntsiab lus, daim ntawv thov ntawm calendula cream rau lub puab tsaig nce tawv nruj tab sis tsis muaj qhov cuam tshuam loj rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij elasticity.
Ib qho kev txwv rau kev siv marigold hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce yog tias marigold yog ib qho kev paub txog kev ua xua rau dermatitis, zoo li ntau lwm tus tswv cuab ntawm tsev neeg Compositae.
3.7. Pomegranate
3.7.1 ib. Keeb kwm, siv, thov
Pomegranate, Punica granatum, muaj peev xwm antioxidant muaj peev xwm thiab tau siv ntau yam khoom los ua cov tshuaj tua kab mob antioxidant. Nws cov ntsiab lus antioxidant siab ua rau nws muaj peev xwm nthuav dav hauv cov qauv tshuaj pleev ib ce.
3.7.2 ib. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Cov tshuaj lom neeg ua haujlwm ntawm pomegranate yog tannins, anthocyanins, ascorbic acid, niacin, potassium, thiab piperidine alkaloids. Cov khoom siv roj ntsha no tuaj yeem muab rho tawm los ntawm cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo, noob, tev, tawv ntoo, hauv paus, lossis qia ntawm pomegranate. Qee yam ntawm cov khoom no xav tias muaj cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob, tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob, tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob, tshuaj tua kab mob, thiab cov teebmeem photoprotective. Tsis tas li ntawd, pomegranate yog qhov muaj zog ntawm polyphenols. Ellegic acid, ib feem ntawm pomegranate extract, yuav txo tau cov tawv nqaij pigmentation. Vim yog ib qho kev cog lus los tiv thaiv kev laus, ntau cov kev tshawb fawb tau tshawb xyuas txoj hauv kev los ua kom cov tawv nqaij nkag mus rau ntawm cov tshuaj no rau kev siv tshuaj pleev.
3.7.3 ib. Cov pov thawj scientific
Pomegranate txiv hmab txiv ntoo extract tiv thaiv tib neeg fibroblasts, hauv vitro, los ntawm UV-induced cell tuag; Tej zaum vim qhov txo qis ntawm NF-κB, txo qis ntawm proapoptotic caspace-3, thiab kho DNA ntxiv. Nws qhia txog kev tiv thaiv daim tawv nqaij-mob txhawb nqa cov teebmeem hauv vitro thiab inhibits UVB-induced modulation ntawm NF-κB thiab MAPK txoj hauv kev. Daim ntawv thov ntawm pomegranate rind extract downregulates COX-2 nyob rau hauv freshly extracted porcine daim tawv nqaij, uas ua rau muaj kev cuam tshuam tseem ceeb los tiv thaiv. Txawm hais tias ellegic acid feem ntau xav tias yog qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm pomegranate extract, tus qauv murine tau pom tias muaj kev tiv thaiv kev ua haujlwm siab dua nrog cov qauv pomegranate rind extract piv rau ellegic acid ib leeg. Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm microemulsion ntawm pomegranate extract siv polysorbate surfactant (Tween 80®) nyob rau hauv 12-lub lim tiam sib cais-lub ntsej muag piv nrog 11 cov ntsiab lus, pom tau tias txo melanin (vim tyrosinase inhibition) thiab txo erythema piv rau kev tswj lub tsheb.
3.8. Soy
3.8.1 ib. Keeb kwm, siv, thov
Soybeans yog cov zaub mov muaj protein ntau nrog cov khoom siv bioactive uas yuav muaj kev tiv thaiv kev laus. Hauv particular, cov taum pauv muaj siab hauv isoflavones, uas tej zaum yuav muaj cov nyhuv anticarcinogenic thiab cov tshuaj estrogen zoo li vim yog cov qauv diphenolic. Cov teebmeem zoo li estrogen no tuaj yeem tiv thaiv qee qhov teebmeem ntawm menopause ntawm daim tawv nqaij laus.
3.8.2 ib. Kev sib xyaw thiab Mechanism ntawm Kev Ua Haujlwm
Soy, los ntawm Glycine maxi, muaj protein ntau thiab muaj isoflavones, suav nrog glycitein, equol, daidzein, thiab genistein. Cov isoflavones, tseem hu ua phytoestrogens, tuaj yeem muaj cov tshuaj estrogenic rau tib neeg.
3.8.3 ib. Cov pov thawj scientific
Soybeans muaj ntau yam isoflavones uas muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv kev laus. Ntawm lwm cov teebmeem biologic, glycitein ua kom pom cov teebmeem antioxidant. Dermal fibroblasts kho nrog glycitein pom cov cell proliferation thiab tsiv teb tsaws, nce synthesis ntawm collagen hom I thiab III, thiab txo MMP-1. Hauv kev tshawb nrhiav cais, cov kua txiv hmab txiv ntoo tau ua ke nrog haematococcus extract (freshwater algae kuj muaj cov tshuaj antioxidants), uas txo qis MMP-1 mRNA thiab cov protein qhia. Daidzein, ib qho kua isoflavone, tau ua kom pom kev tiv thaiv wrinkle, tawv nqaij ua kom pom kev, thiab cov teebmeem ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Diadzein tuaj yeem ua haujlwm los ntawm kev ua kom cov tshuaj estrogen-receptor-β nyob rau hauv daim tawv nqaij, ua rau muaj kev nthuav qhia ntawm endogenous antioxidants thiab txo cov kev qhia ntawm cov kev hloov pauv uas ua rau keratinocyte proliferation thiab tsiv teb tsaws. Soy-derived isoflavonoid equol nce collagen thiab elastin thiab txo MMPs hauv kab lis kev cai ntawm tes.
Ntxiv rau hauv vivo murine kev tshawb fawb pom tau tias txo UVB-induced cell tuag thiab txo qis epidermal thickness hauv hlwb tom qab siv tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm isoflavone extracts. Hauv kev tshawb fawb ntawm 30 tus poj niam tom qab yug me nyuam, kev tswj hwm qhov ncauj ntawm isoflavone extract rau rau lub hlis ua rau muaj qhov nce ntawm epidermal tuab thiab nce dermal collagen raws li ntsuas los ntawm daim tawv nqaij biopsies hauv thaj chaw tiv thaiv tshav ntuj. Nyob rau hauv ib qho kev tshawb fawb cais, purified soy isoflavones inhibited UV-induced keratinocyte tuag thiab txo TEWL, epidermal thickness, thiab erythema nyob rau hauv UV-tso nas daim tawv nqaij.
Ib tug yav tom ntej ob-dig muag RCT ntawm 30 cov poj niam hnub nyoog 45-55 piv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm estrogen thiab genistein (soy isoflavone) rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij rau 24 lub lis piam. Txawm hais tias cov pab pawg siv tshuaj estrogen rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij tau txais txiaj ntsig zoo, ob pawg tau pom tias muaj ntau hom I thiab III lub ntsej muag collagen raws li daim tawv nqaij biopsies ntawm daim tawv nqaij preauricular. Soy oligopeptides tuaj yeem txo qhov erythema Performance index nyob rau hauv UVB-tshuaj tawv nqaij (forearm) thiab txo cov hnub ci hlwb thiab cyclobutene pyrimidine dimers hauv UVB-irradiated foreskin hlwb ex vivo. Ib qho kev sib tw ob-dig muag lub tsheb-tswj 12-lub lim tiam kev soj ntsuam nrog 65 tus poj niam cov ntsiab lus nrog lub ntsej muag photodamage tau pom tias muaj kev txhim kho hauv cov xim pigmentation, blotchiness, dullness, nplua kab, daim tawv nqaij zoo nkauj, thiab cov tawv nqaij tawv thaum piv rau lub tsheb. Ua ke, cov xwm txheej no tuaj yeem ua rau muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv kev laus, tab sis yuav tsum muaj kev sim tshuaj ntsuam xyuas kom txaus los ua kom pom nws cov txiaj ntsig zoo.
4. Kev sib tham
Cov khoom lag luam botanical, suav nrog cov uas tau tham ntawm no, muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv kev laus. Mechanisms ntawm anti-aging botanicals muaj xws li cov dawb radical scavenging peev xwm ntawm topically thov antioxidants, muaj zog lub hnub tiv thaiv, nce daim tawv nqaij moisturization, thiab ntau yam ua rau muaj zog collagen tsim los yog txo collagen tawg. Qee qhov teebmeem no yog me me thaum piv rau cov tshuaj, tab sis qhov no tsis txo lawv cov txiaj ntsig zoo thaum siv nrog rau lwm yam kev ntsuas xws li kev zam lub hnub, kev siv tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub, moisturization txhua hnub thiab kev kho mob tsim nyog ntawm cov tawv nqaij uas twb muaj lawm.
Tsis tas li ntawd, botanicals muab lwm cov khoom xyaw lom neeg lom zem rau cov neeg mob uas nyiam siv cov khoom xyaw "natural" ntawm lawv daim tawv nqaij. Txawm hais tias cov khoom xyaw no pom muaj nyob rau hauv cov xwm txheej, nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb rau kev ntxhov siab rau cov neeg mob tias qhov no tsis txhais tau tias cov khoom xyaw no tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam tsis zoo, qhov tseeb, ntau yam khoom siv botanical paub tias yog qhov ua rau muaj kev tsis haum rau dermatitis.
Raws li cov khoom siv tshuaj pleev ib ce tsis xav tau tib theem ntawm cov pov thawj los ua pov thawj kev ua tau zoo, nws feem ntau nyuaj los txiav txim siab seb qhov kev thov ntawm kev tiv thaiv kev laus puas muaj tseeb. Ob peb ntawm cov botanicals teev nyob rau ntawm no, txawm li cas los xij, muaj peev xwm tiv thaiv kev laus, tab sis xav tau kev sim tshuaj kho mob ntau dua. Txawm hais tias nws nyuaj rau kwv yees li cas cov tshuaj botanical no yuav muaj txiaj ntsig ncaj qha rau cov neeg mob thiab cov neeg siv khoom yav tom ntej, nws muaj feem ntau tias rau feem ntau ntawm cov botanicals, formulations uas muab lawv ua cov khoom xyaw tseem yuav qhia ua cov khoom tu tawv nqaij thiab yog tias lawv. tswj kom muaj kev nyab xeeb dav dav, kev lees paub ntawm cov neeg siv khoom siab, thiab kev saib xyuas zoo tshaj plaws, lawv yuav nyob twj ywm ib feem ntawm kev tu tawv nqaij li niaj zaus, muab cov txiaj ntsig tsawg kawg rau kev noj qab haus huv ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Txawm li cas los xij, rau qee tus lej ntawm cov tshuaj botanical no, txawm li cas los xij, kev cuam tshuam ntau dua rau cov pej xeem tuaj yeem tau txais los ntawm kev ntxiv dag zog rau cov pov thawj ntawm lawv cov tshuaj lom neeg, los ntawm cov txheej txheem siab dhau los ntawm biomarker kev soj ntsuam thiab tom qab ntawd muab cov hom phiaj zoo tshaj plaws rau kev sim tshuaj ntsuam xyuas.
Post lub sij hawm: May-11-2023
